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Our fur babies, our companions, and often the best friends we will ever have. It is a necessity to photograph them.

Pet photography can be tough, but if you set the camera and your environment up right, you will have success.  Who doesn’t want to share their pets photograph all over Instagram using the hashtag #crazycatlady or #bestdogever ? Below I will share my top tips for how to photograph your pet.

We recently added a new addition to our little fur- family so I was inspired to write this post and share how to photograph your pet, since I have been snatching photos of this guy as much as I can.

Prepare

Mindset:

First things first: you know your baby best. So you know when they are having a bad day or are not on their game. This would be the worst time to photograph. Make sure it is not first thing in the morning when their energy is high, a calm well exercised animal (cat or dog- yes cats need exercise too) is ideal.

Have your head in the right space, ready to be patient and have a bonding moment with your pet.  If you had an extra long day at work, trying to pose your pup or focus on the photograph may not be right.

Now, you may be thinking that you just want to snap a cute pic while living life- good times and bad. This is valid and you do not need to find ideal scenarios all the time- however if the purpose is to get that “portrait” photo to frame, so is mindset.  It is also good practice in pet photography to be aware of your mindset at all times when photographing  in order to make the experience more enjoyable.

Positivity

Do you ever pull out your phone or camera and your cat runs from the room or your dog quickly puts its head down and stops doing to cute thing you wanted to capture. This is because so far, that camera has taken your attention away from them. It has distracted you from your connection and is then shoved in their faces without any sort of reward.

Your pet needs to associate positively with the camera. This means for  a cat, you can have a play session with a string and make sure the phone or camera is out and a part of it, but you are focused on playing and them- not the device for at least a few play sessions.  If you have a pup, make sure a treat or reward is used when they look at the lens or at the phone. Positivity goes a looonngg way in for pet photography and getting this everlasting photographs.

Be Open

While it is always good to have inspiration or plan in mind, stay open to what your pet wants. Photograph them sleeping or playing. Have them sit and stay and roll over. Trying to force them to hold a ring of flowers on their head when they have never been trained to do so is not fair and again take away that positivity. I cannot tell you how many times I have seen the forced halloween costume photo where the dog is literally tearing it apart as the owner frantically attempts to photograph them.

Stay familiar and comfortable for them and be open to the photographs it may yield.

Ideal Camera Settings

Motion:

This is one of the most exciting forms of pet photography. Animals can do incredible things and capturing that motion is exciting for you and them. If you are playing fetch and your dog leaps for that frisbee or perhaps you are trying to catch your cat mid leap onto its’ favorite perch you will need to set your camera up ahead of time. This means considering the light and location and then planning from there.

Lens and Aperture

If you are shooting in a park or large space you will need a telephoto lens. Moment make a Tele Lens for the phone that would work perfectly.

Of course Aperture may not be something you can adjust manually- depends on your phone or camera, however if you have the option in motion images you will use a aperture of 5.6 -8. Meaning you will have a mid-range aperture to allow for capturing all ranges of the motion.

Shutter Speed

For motion photography you will need to have a fast shutter speed. This means that the amount of time the shutter stays open is very small so as to capture the movement.

On the phone camera you may have an app that allows you to manually adjust the shutter speed- if this is the case, start at 1/500 and move up from there as needed. You may also consider using the “burst” or “continuous shooting” mode in your phone- similar to the continuous shooting mode for a DSLR. These are often used for sports, but that also means fast motion and can be great for capturing that action.

If shutter speed sounds like a foreign concept for you check out my article on Waterfalls and Shutter Speed here or see my article on general camera control here.

Candid

For candid pet photography your settings should be set to mostly “Auto”. I say mostly, because as you become more familiar with your camera or phone, adjusting setting quickly may become more automatic for you and not take so long as you missing the moment.

Lens and Aperture

In candid you will use your typical lens that is on your phone or camera already. This means that changing to a fish eye lens may look cool, but only if the pet does move in the amount of time it takes you to do so.

Aperture should be a Auto as well, although consider using Portrait Mode which or adjusting the aperture to be open at say a 2.8 in order to create that shallow depth of field. This is only if shallow depth of field would suit the moment of course.

Shutter Speed

This must be automatic and needs to in the mid range, meaning a slow speed of 1/60 typically does not work well for candid shots.

Essentially keep your camera handy and ready at all times. Predict your animals movements if it is possible and “pre-focus” or grad your tripod and set it up on their usual path. If you know your cat jumps in the window to see you when coming home you can prepare and get everything set up ahead of time. While some claim this is not so “candid” I would argue that it is called being prepared.

Posing

Note: Posing your pet requires endless patience, planning and a few sessions.

Unless you happen to have the world’s best trained dog, you will need patience and a good attitude. Remember that mindset mention in the start of this post- here is where it becomes essential. Pet photography is fun, but always remember it is about them, not the photo and your mindset should stay in check.

Location

If you are a professional photographer or rising ametur you may have a studio set up and can try to shoot in this. However, most individuals at home will not have a studio set up, you need to to create your own ideal environment to photograph in.

A plain path of grass with nothing distracting the background may be perfect. Or a white bed spread with a few cat toys can also do the trick.

Lighting

This is the MOST important element of a posed shot and can elevate your work to look more professional. If photographing your pet outside- choose a shady spot with diffused light. You do not want harsh bright light as this can get hot for the animal and look washed out in the shots.

If you are shooting inside- use the window light, but use it from the side. Backlighting in a window can work to create a cute silhouette, but typically this happens on a candid level more often than posing it.

The Tricks

Keep it short. Your session should not be longer than 10 minutes. Animals will get bored and we want to keep positive associations with the experience.

Try to get their attention. Use a silly voice, squeaker or command. Keep it mildly entertaining, but not so entertaining that they can get distracted and wild.

 Tips and Tricks: A Useful Pet Photography List

While the camera settings are important and so is choosing the type of photograph (Motion, Candid, or Posed) along with the location- you will need to develop some general tips and tricks for getting that polished and perfect pic of your pet. Hopefully this listicle will provide some ideas and new ways of photographing your pet.

  • Keep your sessions short
  • Use treats and always associate a positive experience with the  photograph
  • Do not shove the camera in their face
  • Have your camera ready at all times for “candid” shots
  • Use a shallow depth of field for a professional look
  • Use natural light provided
  • Get on their level (lay on the ground)
  • Get in close
  • Stand back from afar
  • POV should be one of the two above, the “mid range” perspectives tend to look cliche
  • Relax
  • Look for expressions
  • Keep their eyes sharp
  • Be patient
  • Experiment
  • Work in their environment
  • Timing Matters- be ready to shoot bursts and take several shots
  • Pretend you are a sports photographer
  • Use props (like a toy etc)
  • Do not use them as props (not cool)
  • This is about them not you
  • Capture their character and personality

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When selecting the orientation of a photograph, it is important to consider what you want the image to say. Their is a major difference between portrait and landscape orientation and even more still with the square image. While this may be a short post, it is an essential one for the photographer.

Your life as a photographer is all about choices. You will decide in the moment or pre-plan. You decide how to arrange the elements in the plane and what message it is sending when you hit publish. One choice is the orientation of the camera and this should be a choice. This means your first step is to slow down a bit and start to consider the orientation if you never have. Soon it will become instinct for what looks more appropriate for the scene.

Landscape Orientation

This is a traditional orientation and mirrors that of classic 35mm film. The rule of thirds can easily be applied atop this in order to find a pleasing composition. This is also the orientation I suggest for Phone Photographers to use in order to improve their photography only for the fact that it reminds us of  a more professional look.

However, Landscape is not always the best choice- while professional it can look flat and often does not lead to dramatic engagement. Landscape photos also ask the viewer to be an observer and stand on the edge of the image looking in . This is what makes it perfect for shooting- you guessed it- the landscape.

It can also be one of the best orientation for sports. Any live action where the subject is moving could use the extra room to move that the Landscape orientation provides.

The sprawling nature and professional aura of the landscape orientation make it a positive choice, but let’s not forget about the portrait orientation.

Portrait Orientation

Portrait is appropriate for, of course, portraits. This is because it tends to be more flattering and elongates the human form or face- while a Landscape format can make it appear more “squatty”. You may also choose Portrait orientation for anything that is tall- even in landscapes and nature: such as a tall tree, tall heron, or a extensive waterfall.

Portraits have a different feel because they can ask the viewer to move from being an observer to actually stepping into the image. It is shaped like a doorway and can feel more inviting in some cases.

This frame can also lead to a dynamism that extends the basic elements and principles of a photograph.

The Square

The square is a more common orientation now- especially thanks to Instagram. While found in a classic Rolleiflex and later the Hasselblad  and circulating with photographer since around 1930’s. This format prospered until the 80’s and the rise of the 35mm camera that found its way into everyone’s homes. Then it was rectangles all the time- portrait or landscape format.

The square stayed beating with cameras like the Polaroid and Diana as a “retro” or “Artistic” look. It really had it’s comeback thanks to Instagram and is now a built in feature in many DSLR’s and Mirrorless cameras made today.

While some claim the square is rigid and confining- its perfect alignment allows for balanced and focused compositions. It asks for an entirely different approach to composition. The rule of thirds can still apply, but may seem a bit cramped.  It is often considered a style or trademark for photographers and is worth trying out if you have not already.

If you are fascinated by the Sqaure and it’s psychology you should check out this article by John Suler on the Image and the Psyche.

I have a series of small square black and white images called “A Study” that focuses on shadow, shape, texture and most importantly rhythm.It seems that the square likes to march together.  To see these go here.

A Exercise in Format

Beyond these three main choices- you have panorama and even the ratio of the rectangle itself. These can often be changed in your camera’s settings or in your phone using the swipe panel. As an exercise try to shoot the same location using all three of these formats.

What did you notice? Did one work better for the close ups?

What format do you gravitate towards? Tell me in the comments below.  

 

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After the popularity of “Posing Tips: Make your Subject Feel (& Look) like a Model” I decided to share some posing secrets for portraits that are not as obvious. There are a few mirco-movements that make a major impact when posing for portraits.

As always, make your subject comfortable and feel at ease. The first 10 shots or so in a session I rarely let them see. They are just a way for us to find a rhythm and connect with this strange object I keep pointing in their face. After those initial shots and established relationship, then you can start to employ some of these secrets for posing in portraits.

Note: This is the very first post where the images were taken from a free stock photo website. This is due to the fact that I do not have permission from all my subjects to share and blog about our sessions. However, all tips are mine and ones I use often. 

Secret #1 

Place the tongue to the roof of the mouth.

What it does: Creates a muscle tension/flex and lifts the chin skin up.

Area of Concern Addressed:  Double chin/lack of a defined jaw

Use When: Shooting profile views or 3/4 views

Secret #2

Part the Lips

What it does: Creates a sultry look or elongates the face

Area of Concern Addressed: None- only an added effect. Can be useful for those with especially round faces when paired with a upper angle.

Use When: Shooting close ups or during boudoir sessions

Secret #3

Angle the face

What it does: Creates structure and gives interest. Defines the jaw and intensifies the eyes. Universally flattering.

Area of Concern Addressed: Lazy eyes – this is the best trick for an individual who may have a lazy eye which is especially prominent in photos.  Angle the face and have them look in the direction of the lazy eye if possible. Shooting them straight on will not be flattering in most cases.

Use When: Shooting portraits or head shots

Secret #4

Hands on the waist (instead of the hips)

What it does: Creates a hourglass figure and gives the illusion of a smaller frame. Lifts the arms off the torso.

Area of Concern Addressed: Extra flowy clothes or a subject who has requested to look thinner (I get asked for this all the time).

Use When: Anytime you are tempted to say “Put your hand on your hips” . This will lift the arm from the torso which is good and flattering for how the camera picks up this part of the image, but it is not good for the size of the frame. Hands on the inner waist will cinch in the frame. This is also very helpful if your subject wore super flowy clothes since these have a tendency to drown your the form.

Secret #4

Lift the Collar Bone and Extend the Neck

What it does: Creates the illusion of a “thinner” look.

Area of Concern Addressed: None- only a effect (being thinner is desired by clients, but not something I think should ever be a “area of concern”)

Use When: Laughing photos or intense and serious photos (both will be intensified with this pose)

Secret #5

Cross your Ankles

What it does: Creates a point at the end of the frame and tilts the body slightly. Makes you appear taller.

Area of Concern: When two subjects are drastically different heights – have one subject cross ankles with one foot in front to appear taller.

Use When: Photographing couples or when using a wide lens (as those tend to make people look shorter and squatty)

 

That is all for now! Give it a shot and tell me how it goes. Or better yet, if you have some of your own secrets for posing, comment below.  Thank you all!

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Posing tips. It is not natural to everyone and your job is to make your subject feel good and look good. Even if you are not shooting professionally, you will inevitably be asked to take someones photo because you are “the photographer of the group.”. Here are my top posing tips that will keep the photos polished and have your subjects feeling pretty fantastic about themselves.

For these tips I am using the photos from a recent photo shoot with my sister. A performer and musician she needed some head shots and senior portraits. This was a mix of the traditional and fun.

1. Place the Hands Intentionally

Bring the hands towards the face or place them in the hair. Whatever you do, do not let them hang there. Give specific instructions for where they go. My lines for hands in the past have been the following:

  • Pretend like you are playing with your earing
  • Run your hands through your hair
  • Feel the texture of _________ (in this case the scarf)
  • Hands in your pockets- thumbs out like you are “Chillin”
  • Gently touch your fingers to your lips
  • Cross your arms (more masculine look)
  • Lay their hands on a rail (make sure there is not a intense grip)
  • Hands on waist (not hips)

Here are some NEVER’s for hand placement:

  • Over the crotch
  • Typically any “praying hands” look not so great
  • Hanging at the sides
  • Fists (unless they are a MMA Fighter)
  • “Just do what feels natural”

2. It is all about the Shoulders

I rarely will shoot the shoulder straight on- even when it is a man. A 3/4 approach is always more flattering.

Here are some phrases I used to position for the shoulders in addition to some taps and gentle movements:

  • Drop your shoulder facing me
  • Look towards your shoulder (now up)
  • Take a deep breath (lift shoulders with them) and drop
  • Shoulders back
  • Lift your hands to the sky and have them bring back behind them (BEFORE shooting)- this is good for the especially humpback prone

3. To Smile or Not Smile

Have your subject constantly switch between smiling with teeth, being serious and no teeth. Don’t forget to capture the candid in between moments too.

For a sultry look, have your subject breathe out of the mouth. A slight part also tends to elongate the face.

I typically carry some new chapstick or Vaseline with me in the case of dry lips since that tends to be a pain to touch up and remove from photos. Also – ALWAYS tell your client or subject when something is in their teeth. You must.

4. Catch the Candid

Catch those in between moments. Posing can be exhausting and sometime subjects get in their heads or build anxiety.

Take breaks, move locations or change your set. Crack some jokes and have a chat. They will let loose and you can get some genuine smiles. Who doesn’t love that?

Candid are my favorite, but only occasionally are my subjects favorite. So do not feel disheartened if they prefer the posed and rehearsed shots.

 

5. Where do I Look?

Eyes. The window to the soul right? Let’s make sure you capture them in a multitude of ways. Ask you subject to look in different directions. Do not get the whites of the eyes- pay attention to where the Iris is and where your camera is pointing.

Give direction. Subject ask often “Do I look at you?” Tell them before they even ask.

Phrases I use for direction:

  • Look just over my shoulder (specify right or left)
  • Look down at your shoe with your eyes (keep their head the same)
  • Look down and on the count of three look up right into the camera (Have your camera ready to snap)
  • Blink, Blink, Blink and Open
  • Smile with your eyes (They always smile with everything and its cute)
  • Pose them, and keep posing them.

6. Play with the Hair

Move it over one shoulder, all behind. Use part of it to cover their face.

Have them play with their own hair. If you want a really dramatic look start asking them to flip and then run it through Photoshop like I did for fun.

Even if you are shooting an individual with shorter hair having the subject interact with their hair can be fun and change up the shoot.

7. Move Around and Pay Attention

Move between close ups and far away. Try not to have them doing the same thing for long periods of time.

Make sure you keep the background simple. Pay attention that it is not cutting off your subject or distracting from them. Also, just because you blurred the background does not mean it is no longer distracting, the colors can be too.

For more posing tips check out How to Take a Better Portrait with your Phone.

 

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This post features recent photographs in Seattle taken on my iPhone 7 Plus with the usual gear I carry in addition to some work from my last trip. All photos on this blog are my own unless otherwise noted. 

Travel and the Trip

Glass Museum

While Portland is my home city; Seattle’s towering space needle, glass gardens, art museums and the famous market with flying fish hold many happy childhood memories for me.  I have been to Seattle at least 30 times as a Pacific Northwest Native and it is only a short 3 hour road trip away.

As a teenager it was a popular trip to make on a long weekend when we had nothing better to do than sit on the waterfront, ride the ferris wheel and generally run around laughing at nothing too specific.

This past week I had a conference for work in Seattle and found myself dreading the drive for numerous reasons. Traffic, the fact that I was not in a car full of friends with the aroma of coffee and sounds of inside jokes, and that it was for well… work.

Space Needle

I decided to do something I only faintly remember from when I was very young: take the train from Portland to Seattle. I then I arranged to meet a few friends while I was up there in between my conferences and break out sessions. I am so grateful I did.

The train was delightful and I highly recommend it to anyone. Seriously, no stress, no traffic, and you can just bring your carry on with you. Look up ahead of time which side to sit on for the views of the river.

While I was slightly worried about navigating the city without a car (since this is how I had made all of my other trips), it was actually simple and stress free. Plus no parking!! The train station in Seattle was only 2 miles from my hotel and I opted for an Lyft ride to get settled in. You can also take the tram most places in Seattle.

Arranged to meet with a friend within walking distance of the hotel and managed to trek the city by foot all 4 days of the conference.

The food and company were of course superb and lets not forget about the views. I stayed away from the touristy stuff this time and enjoyed other portions of the city. So the images of those things were from past trips to Seattle.

Composing and Contrast: Photo Tips

Downtown by the Convention Center

Photographing in Seattle always brings a stark contrast to what I normally shoot.  Composing in nature is my tendency and comfort zone. I can easily frame the bend of a river or edges of a cliff. The forest is living and takes calm flowing breaths to surround me.  The curves and turns in nature easily find their way into a well composed image for me since this is where I spend most of my time.

When in the city I have to switch my focus. It is busy and thriving. Breathing heavily from the weight of buildings and cement. I am often looking in linear directions and considering thousands of objects.

I enjoy using my Fish eye lens when shooting in the city and tend to turn many images black and white. I feel this leads to a classic look. I find I am even less drawn towards photographing people in the city and instead choose to focus on the architecture. That which is not alive.

Tips and things to look for when shooting in the city:
  • Reflections in the skyscrapers and windows
  • Balance in your images (this is important when so much is happening)
  • Shoot in Portrait orientation occasionally  to allow for the city to look as tall as it needs to.
  • Look up (Always)
  • Edit and turn Black and White for a classic look
  • Go into building and look down or out of the windows
  • Focus on architecture and the character of the city- if it is gray let it be gray
  • Pay attention to the edges of the frame- do not have weird things flying out of the edges
  • Use the creative architecture to inspire you
  • Make them your own- avoid the skyline images and touristy shots everyone else has- create your own work.

Recommendations and a To Do List

These are some links to get you started on your own trip planning if you are thinking Seattle is calling your name.

Amtrak:

Pros:

  • Easy to Navigate
  • Comfortable Travel
  • Photo ops
  • No Stress of Traffic or Driving

Cons:

  • Depending on where you are coming from the tickets can be more expensive
Hotel: Hyatt Olive 8

Pros:

  • Comfortable Stay
  • CLEAN Rooms
  • Great free breakfast
  • Walking distance to major attractions
  • If you use Chase Points  they work here!

Cons:

  •  No free Breakfast at this one (rare for a Hyatt)
  • It is a Hotel and not a hostel so a bit more spendy
  • Views are not great for photos unless you pay the extra $$$$$
Food:

Pros:

  • ALL of it is good.
  • Try to food carts – especially La Creperie
  • Palomino was fresh and delish
  • Juicy Cafe is a healthy on the go lunch option
  • Starbucks on EVERY corner
  • Pike’s Market has the best donuts

Cons:

  • Dinner is expensive in the city
  • Harder to find a grocery store
To Do:

Don’t forget to check out Trip Advisors Top 10 things to do list before visiting any city. So far these have never steered me wrong. Maybe even do this for your own city to get some great shots of things you normally don’t think about.

My recommendations for this city are the following:

  • Pike’s Street Market
  • Space Needle
  • Chihuly Glass Museum
  • Sculpture Park
  • Seattle Art Museum
  • Original Starbucks
  • Waterfront
  • Ferris Wheel (only if it is nice out)
  • Scavenger hunt for the Troll under the bridge

 

You will get some fantastic shots and be so inspired by the architecture and life of the thriving city of Seattle. Of course, let me know how it goes.

 

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Hello friends! I am always shuffling through creative apps on my phone, but have a found a few keepers too. As a photographer it is important to switch it up and try new things. It should be only natural as we evolved as artists.

In addition to this, as a phone photographer having a system in place to organize creative content is also important. Most of us do not have multiple phone and use our devices for our work and daily lives as well. I have a few favorite habits and apps that help me keep all of this in check and keep my phone functional.

Watch the video below to see what is on my phone at this very moment and how I stay organized.

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Look at Good Work and Read About Good Work

As some of you may know I am a photography and design teacher by day. I had a professor in college that said, “If you are not looking at good work, you are not making good work.” Photography books are a plenty, but there are a few that have truly impacted me and are worth your time.

To this day, I try to embody this mentality within my own practice and that of my students. We start every class with our Artist of the Day looking at photographers from the very start of the invention that captured light.

I often come across individuals who are so consumed with being their “own” person and not looking at other artist’s work. Or God Forbid the Instagram game of follow and unfollow without considering the album of work. (Someone explain to me why people play the follow unfollow game! Ugh!)

I digress, the point being as an artist, creator or photographer I strongly believe you should be looking to improve your practice. The best way to do this is to look at others work and hear what they have to say about it.

5 Must Reads

As a photographer, there have been a few books that have changed the most powerful tool I possess; my perspective.

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Photographing in the rain can be tough. It feels dreary and often uninspiring when all the lighting is an overcast diffused gray. However, I have to get over this and shoot despite the weather.

As you know I am an avid hiker and try to get outside and at least once a week. In my current location and the surrounding areas it rains….ALL the time. I live in the Pacific Northwest, home of green and lush forests, but this means rain for about half the year. The video above was one such day on a hike.

The same can be said for some of our travels. An equally dreary place was Ireland that held a similar climate. We visited in the summer and were able to experience some glimpses of sun, but the constant spitting of rain was common.

Here are some of my top tips for shooting in the rain starting from the gear to what you can look for. Watch the video or read the post! 🙂

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